Weekend Birding at Lambir Hills

An obliging bulbul on a macaranga, and behind him the fruits many birds go for.

Not 4 weekends ago, while visiting Lambir with the kids, we met a birder with his father attempting some bird photography at Lambir Hills National Park with a 500m. His first question was : "Do we have a bird guide?". Short answer : "No, we haven't got one here in Miri unless you engage someone beforehand from tour outfits in Kuching or KL. Those guides in KK would be closest!"

Lambir Hills National Park is a big place. Birdwatching is probably manageable on your own if you know the birds and you are adventurous enough to venture into the trails alone. You'd still need a few days to do the place justice. The Lambir 2002 Birdlist (Shanahan & Debsky) boasts a comprehensive list of 200+ birds. There hasn't been any more complete work to date since then.

For bird photography, it's probably best if you are already aware of where the birds are going to be. This is where local knowledge, perhaps built over the years of birding the area or collective birding experience come into play. A bird photographer can quickly set-up in a designated place known to be having regular bird visits thus guaranteed results.

Over the years, many birders have been to and birdwatched at Lambir. Some of this additional information is added to the list maintained at the Park HQ Office. Occasional visits by Miri birders added some more valuable bird sightings to the list.

If you are visiting for only a day or two, some of the following locales within the Park complex might be useful for you. If you have more time, book yourselves into one of the hilltop chalets and do your photography to your heart's content from your chalet windows. If you feel lucky surely go lug your equipment along the Innoue-Pantu Loop trail, there are a few choice spots along the way for very shy birds that do come out calling once in a while.

My favorite places has always been just around the HQ complex. I'm not looking for any rarities in particular, any bird photograph is an image worth making in my mind. Some of these pictures I have made while checked in at the Hilltop Chalet. One of these days I might just try to lug the 600mm, tripod with Wimberley head as well as other associated accessories into Innoue, it's not yet time for now.

One of my favorite spot is Chalet No. 3 just up the hill behind the temporary canteen just after you've passed the old park office. In between the chalets there are a few nice rhododenrons and macarangas. A few other fruiting plants I don't recognize. These are perfect spots for birdwatching and bird photography without having to lug heavy equipment too far into the trail. During furiting seasons, these spots are a hive of activities. Dusky Munia are commonly seen flitting about the neighbourhood. At least 3-4 kinds of bulbuls and sunbirds make their stops at the macarangas picking up juicy little ripe fruits. Spectacled Spiderhunter, Purple-naped Sunbird and Hairy-backed Bulbul are regulars here.

Fruiting trees are all tell tale signs that the site could be your next productive site as far as birds are concerned.

Chalet No. 3 from across the wooden bridge. A fruiting macaranga in between Chalet 3 and 4 guarantees bulbuls, sunbirds, flowerpeckers and spiderhunters. A rhododendron is also nearby.

Another spot, the camera is pointing to a fruiting tree a favorite of bulbuls, barbets and leafbirds. Occasionally a squirrel or two would drop in.

Little orange fruit (unidentified) a favorite of several species of bulbuls, barbets and leafbirds.

If you are lucky you'll spot nesting Dusky Munia busy flitting back and forth tending or building nest for the season. Bornean Brown Barbet and Greater Leafbird are regularly seen picking up ripe fruits in this area.

Areas surrounding Hilltop Chalet is probably second only to Chalet No. 3. Here if you are early, you can point your lens towards babblers which are very active very early in the morning and late afternoon. There's also an unidentified fruting tree with little black berries and macaranga in front of the chalet. You can shoot all day from the comfort of your chalet living room.

Down the hill from the Hilltop Chalet is a small pond, quiet by the side with a little shelter on it's shore. Here Blue-eared Kingfisher, Stork-billed Kingfisher have been recorded. Black-naped Monarch stops by for a bath on hot days. Banded Kingfisher so far has been heard but has not yet been seen. You'll be probably be more lucky with the Rufous-backed Kingfisher in the same area.


This little pond is a confirmed favorite of at least three species of kingfisher as well as other birds. Occasionally a terrapin would pop it's head out of the water.

For the more stout at heart, a foray into the Innoue trail just behind the Hilltop Chalet could be just the thing to get you pumping. Other than the babblers, pittas and trogons regularly calls a short distance into the trail. Only a few birders have been privileged with photographs of both species. Further up towards Pantu shelter, sightings of Bornean Bristlehead has been made on numerous occasions. Near a small valley where a wooden bridge cross a little stream, there's a little pool of water on the right where a Banded Kingfisher regularly calls though he has yet to be sighted much more photographed by anyone.

With 200+ species of birds on it's list, those spending a few days at Lambir Hills NP would surely be rewarded with sightings of at least 1/3 of the birds there. A single half day trip maynot be enough for everyone, but it surely rakes up your chances of getting the less regularly seen quarries.

Nazeri Abghani/Nov 2011

The Conquest of Bukit Pantu (Part 2)

On August 14th, my family brought me for a hiking trip with their friends. This is the second trip for us except for Ben. It was a very tiring trip, but one of the best I ever enjoyed. I was very excited before the trip because I had fun on the first one a week ago.


My cousins and I showing off our new real hiking shoes from Bata before we started the hike (Photo by Aunty Sara)

When we started, I was still ok. But when we went deeper into the jungle, I got very tired because I wanted to sit down. I did not dare to sit because I saw ants everywhere. Some were very big and some looked like those you can find around the house. I borrowed Aunty Sara’s hiking stick to lean on. We also saw some leeches along the way. Luckily I didn’t get bitten.


So tired I couldn’t stand straight or smile (Photo by Aunty Sara)

Before I dropped the cakes (Uncle Zang took this photo)

When we reached the hut, we were so happy. Everyone was laughing and talking but after awhile, everyone became quiet to rest. Nana brought some cakes (not the ones with cream around it) that my Aunty Alice had made and put them beside me. When Aunty Sara suddenly laughed, I accidentally pushed the box to the floor. All the cakes fell out. I helped Nana pick them off the floor. We wiped and blew the sand away before putting them back in the box.

I felt bad for dropping the cakes, but my daddy was the first to eat the cake to show that it was safe. When he swallowed, some of us also took the cake because we were very hungry. We finished the cakes and no one had stomach ache. This means that the jungle is clean. If this happened anywhere else, my mommy will never allow us to eat anything that has fallen to the ground!

After the rest, we kept walking and I was in front of the group with Ben and Uncle Zang. Right before we reached Bukit Pantu, there was a wall of rocks that Aunty Sara said we had to go up to reach the top. I was very excited because it looked like the movies. It looked very difficult but going up that hill was not as difficult as coming down.

I really had a good time that day. I wish my friends from school can come but mommy says only if their mommys and daddys come along. I will tell my friends and teachers at school what a fun hobby it is to go hiking at Lambir! Maybe next time, they can come along.

Kendrick Tho wrote this article with a little bit of help from his mommy

The Conquest of Bukit Pantu (Part 1)

Sunday 14th August 2011 was a memorable day. Not only because it was my grandfather’s birthday, but I think more so because we made a crazy decision. On the way to meet Aunty Sara and Uncle Zang, we picked up the rest of the team: Nana, Ben and Darren.


The obligatory “before” group shot at the trail head

New hiking shoes for the boys

Aunty Sara had mentioned taking up my father’s challenge of a 6 km hike, but she did say “we’ll see first at the first rest stop”.

When we started the trek, I was feeling regretful on agreeing to join the hike. I was already tired within the first 5 minutes because we seem to be going uphill with no end in sight. I felt ridiculous! We could have been so comfortable at home, but here we were asking for trouble.

I could tell Darren was regretting too because he was also complaining. In fact, he was already losing balance even when we were on flat ground! As for my other cousin, Ben, he was among the crazy people who enjoyed the difficult terrain. It was his first hike and he already managed to bounce ahead with Uncle Zang who was mistakenly named by Nana as “Ben”. So in our team that day, we had “Ben 1” and “Ben 2”. Sometimes, depending on how tired Nana was, it was “Big Ben” and “Little Ben” . . . .

We managed to finish the first trail moaning and groaning with lots of rest in between. This was bad! When we found the first rest stop, we were so happy we could fly! We drank so much water that our supply came dangerously low for the remaining trail. Nana even brought a plastic container of cake that Kendrick dropped on the floor. We ate sandy cake, but hey, no one’s complaining.


Aunty Sara’s tree hugger. This was even before the first rest stop!

Up some rickety stairs

All too soon, dream over . . . . Aunty Sara said “let’s go”. Without any discussion, I think, she decided we were heading towards Bukit Pantu. We all had no idea what was awaiting us! At least, I managed to check my facebook at the hut . . . .

Haiyo, another uphill trek. We went up, and up, and up, and up some more! As my mom didn’t take breakfast that morning, she opened a pack of chocolate fingers on the way and only ate 3 pieces. She made the rest of us finish it and made us gain what we lost!


Like I said, we kept going up and up and up . . . .

The second trail had soooo many uphills. I thought I mumbled in my mind, but apparently I voiced my incredulous thought – what kind of crazy people invented hiking anyway?! Why in the world did God think of when he created mosquitoes and leeches? What if there’s a snake? A lot of what ifs crossed my mind. But never mind, that’s just me.

Aunty Sara had the uncanny habit of taking pictures of funny things along the way. She stopped to take a close up of a dead flower on the trail. I was like “so what?? It’s just a flower! AND it’s dead!”

After what felt like 10,000km uphill, we reached Bukit Pantu! I finally saw a clearing with sunlight. The final uphill climb to reach the summit was so dreamy. I never thought I would be some place like this. It was incredible.


This was simply awesome! (Photo by Dr. Zang Zhuquan)

We hiked almost a total of 4 hours and 6 km to see this?!

Well, I guess it was beautiful view from the summit (Photo by Philip Tho)

At the peak, we did a leech count and found that only person had a leech bite . . . . Aunty SARA! The leech had her blood and is officially her relative! I became so paranoid about leeches after seeing it bloated with blood. Nana and Kendrick demanded for certificates to prove their suffering . . .

Because of my disgust at leeches, going back was indeed so much faster than going up. I think we made it in record time although coming and going was equally difficult.


It is easier to just slide down on your butt!

When we reached the canteen at Park HQ, we sort of emptied the fridge of their coca-colas. There were other tourists there having their lunch and they must have thought we were nuts. Uncle Zang was the only smart one among us. Instead of piling all the calories we’ve burned, he decided to nap under a tree instead.

After Bukit Pantu, I would think that any other trail would be a piece of cake. And coincidentally, all of us did receive a certificate of accomplishment from *SWCT Boot Camp® a few days later! And we are all superbly proud of Darren, he turned pro on the journey back!


* Sara Wong C. T. Boot Camp

Aunty Sara’s graduating class of 2011!

Words by Kenisha Tho
Images by Sara Wong unless otherwise indicated

Greenhorns no more!

Last weekend on 14th August, Adeline, Philip, Liza and their kids and grandkids made it to Bukit Pantu on their second hike in Lambir and Ben on his first try! Impressive! Despite the groans and moans along the way, the group did extremely well summiting Bukit Pantu after just one training, and here is the photo to prove it! I am scared to hike with these kids now, not only are they fast on their feet, they seem to possess unlimited energy too!


The group at the top of Bukit Pantu, tired but elated as well

There were of course lots of fun along the way with this group. Not even 10 minutes into Inoue Trail (which is up most of the way for 1km), Adeline wanted to go home and kept talking about catching a taxi. She piled the kids with chocolate at every rest stop but didn't take much herself and complained about empty stomach all the way. Kenisha wondered aloud when we started on Bukit Pantu Trail after a rather long rest at the first hut: what's wrong with this group, we can go back now you know . . . . and (at the first staircase) who invented hiking anyway?

Then half way up Bukit Pantu, Darren wanted to shoot himself with the water pistol he brought along . . . . for coming. Ben blazed the trail ahead of the others, keeping up very well with Dr Zang who went up to the summit of Mount Kinabalu last year in extreme weather condition and thought that it was just a walk in the park! Kendrick became a sushi chef on the way down, tying a hand towel around his forehead, setting a new fashion trend on the trail. :-)

Philip as usual was checking his e-mails whenever he could, looking after his business as he hiked, cool as a cucumber, while Liza was seen every now and then hugging a tree or sitting down on fallen tree trunks covered with moss (very comfortable in her own words).


An easy chair can be located at km 1.1 on the Inoue Trail...

Darren deserves a special mention here for the vast improvement he made on this trip. One minute he was unsure where to put his feet, the next minute he picked up a stride that was so confident that he zipped past us and was able to keep up with his cousins! Amazing improvement!


The Commando, the Sushi Chef and the Tourist (Photo by Philip Tho).

Jungle sprinter in action

Back at Lambir Canteen, we ordered a feast to celebrate our achievement, putting back most if not all of the calories we worked so hard to lose that morning! :-)

Congratulations to all, and we look forward to more hikes and fun in Lambir. And thank you Dr Zang for his assistance with the boys as well as capturing some of the amazing photos and candid shots.

Here’s a 13 year old’s perspective . . . followed by a 9 year old’s . . . of the trek.

Words by Sara Wong/MNS Miri
Images by Sara Wong unless otherwise indicated

Greenhorns on Lambir Trails!

Looking back at our two hours plus sojourn in Lambir on our novice hike with a senior citizen, three children, a glamour babe and an oddly matched couple, Sara must have given this a lot of thought before volunteering herself to be the troop guide.

Well before the journey began, Sara had one email after the other. For the perfectionist that she is, I’d say Sara controlled herself really well by limiting her info- pack to two succinct emails that answered everything before we even asked. First, to list what the group needs to bring, next, a visual guide of the trail, hiking details and the like. We were to do the “loop anti clockwise” whatever that meant. So until today, I still have no inkling which trail we’ve conquered. I only know it was more than two hours of a lot of uphill and strangely lesser downhill. At least, it felt that way.


All smiles prior to the hike

The day greeted us with a bright and cheery hello. Fine weather without a hint of rain. Somehow, thunderstorms tend to trail me for every foray I’ve had with MNS. But not this time. It was cool, breezy and cooperative weather. The Gods must have taken pity on me and decided to give me a well deserved break rather than dumping rain on me.

While Sara was dealing with the park rangers, it dawned on Liza that she qualified for the senior citizen’s rate and had a discount on her entrance fee! After the hike, we all agreed there was nothing senior about this particular citizen. She wowed us all by beginning the hike looking like any normal hiker, and ended up looking like a commando in her headscarf and svelte black ensemble. Photo sessions prior to the walk were in order and all eagerly anticipated the adventure ahead of us.


Miss Glamour Babe of the Year, Fidella flashing a charming smile to woo birds off the trees! (Photo by Philip Tho)

5 minutes into the walk, full of gusto

Once the hike started, I for one did not take the opportunity to observe and appreciate the beauty all around me. I had to focus keeping one foot in front of the other, and worrying if the children were doing fine. My 13 year old daughter was plucky enough to agree to the hike with a high fever! I concentrated on trying not to trip over myself and prayed the journey would end. Of course, with my pride, I managed to refrain from asking like a little child – “are we there yet?” I’m sure it was a beautiful hike – I just have to trust others’ observations as my eyes were glued to the jungle floor.


Beauty and serenity all around us

30 minutes into the hike, still upbeat

Liza, the oldest of the group led the pack with the youngest, my 9 year old and it appeared that they were mistaking the hike for the hash. We lost sight of them almost throughout the entire journey. Occasionally, there was a hasher’s call from Liza although none of us could make out what on earth it was about.


Leaders of the pack. Hashing their way through a hike uphill all the way.

Err guys! Wait for me!

Fidella, our group’s glamour babe kept the stride and even offered what she calls ‘motivator’ in the form of junk food for the children during one of the rest stops. She surprised us all in her impeccable appearance. No sweat in sight, no breathlessness. Amazingly poised for someone who is supposedly roughing it.

Philip and I trailed behind. More like we were left behind due to our pace. Either we were completely out of shape, or Philip wanted to use the excuse that he was snapping blurry photos of the jungle around us.


My Lord!! What have I gotten myself into?!

For the first time in my adult life, I actually sweated. At least, I was burning calories and it showed. So definitely thumbs up if anyone wants to get into shape.


That’s me trying to hang on to my dignity and Darren trying to figure if he should go over or under.

Wait Ken, is that a leech!?

I would say that we had a blast of a time. Serious bonding across such different characters in such a short time impressed the psychologist in me. The humour was infectious, and Liza stole the show when we were going up the concrete stairs on the trail. Stopping to get her breath for a fraction of a second, she demanded in her strong Spanish accent punctuated with a dash of sarcasm, a pinch of wit, and a hint of desperation – “Where is Sara?! I want to speak to that woman!” Obviously, no one paid any attention to her at all while she was rambling on as we were all trying to finish going up the stairs with our bodies bent in an awkward position trying to be aerodynamically aligned. Going up those stairs are to be associated with all four letter words in my vocabulary. Seriously, I didn’t think I was going to make it up to the top! It was incredible that Liza could mumble so much and still had enough stamina to continue going up. We’ll just have to add “adept at multi-tasking” to her list of credentials. Were we misfits in the jungle? Yes. Evidently so.


Liza on the dreaded concrete stairs

Another lesson learnt from this weekend. Leave behind all gadgets if one wants to enjoy nature. At one point during a rest stop, all phones came out and it was business as usual. I ordered water, Philip played a game and Kenisha got on facebook.


Mug shot of Sara Wong’s boot camp for misfits

The troop is looking forward to the next trip and as though it wasn’t enough the last time, Philip is challenging us to do a 6km trek. The children don’t know about this yet, and I do wonder what their reactions would be. Liza’s all game, and will try to arrange for Ben and Tiff to join. More teens. Great! Not only that! Their dad Bruce might join in the next adventure as well... Fidella’s camp is extremely quiet with no response. Darren’s dry humour got ahead of himself and is looking forward to it. Kenisha and Kendrick are super cool, ready for any misadventure their mom throws their way. Philip, the love of my life, will take on anything I throw his way and try stay my life partner. He tries. Sweet!

Sara has volunteered herself again to guide us. Me? I have extremely mixed reactions. Part of me says I must be mad if I agree, but a part of me exhilarated in the feeling of being surrounded by beauty (which I didn’t see...). So until the next time, stay tuned!

Article by Dr Adeline Wong/MNS Miri
Photos by Sara Wong unless otherwise indicated

Forest in the Mist

The forest practically glowed in brilliant green after the rain

It had rained the night before and it was still drizzling lightly when we headed to Lambir one Saturday morning in June, but as soon as we entered the forest the tall canopy sheltered us from the rain, so it was not necessary to use any rain gears at all.

The ground was wet but not muddy and the air was a few degrees cooler than on normal days. It was a nice change from the hot and humid weather we had for the past few weeks.

Screened in mist the forest that day had a dreamy look as if nothing existed except for the path and trees on both sides of us. It was quiet as we made our way through the forest to Bukit Pantu; the only sounds accompanying us were the occasional bird calls and the gentle hum of the forest muted by the mist.

I think it was about one and half hours later (who were keeping tab on the time anyway) when we arrived at the summit of Bukit Pantu to un-obscured views of the forest all around. We didn't know when the rain had stopped, but despite it being past 9 and near 10 am, a lot of the mist had yet dissipated, it draped like a soft and white blanket clouding the forest below us.

It was so peaceful at the top we stayed for more than 40 minutes, watching the mist slowly lifted from the forest as the temperature gradually rose.

We were definitely glad to have made the decision to go into the forest despite the drizzle and experienced the forest in a different atmosphere. There was something oddly calming and yet uplifting about being out in the forest breathing in the clean and fresh air on a misty morning, certainly felt like we were closer to Mother Nature that day.

Sara Wong/MNS Miri


Last steep climb just before the peak of Bukit Pantu

The forest was shrouded in the swirling mist

Nepenthes albomarginata which can be found at Bukit Pantu

Typical attractions along a jungle hike

The Lambir Hills National Park in Miri has well-maintained trails and you can be sure to hike in white shoes, socks and clothes and come out clean, unless of course you get caught in a thunderstorm.

My most recent hike was more eventful than expected so I am sharing some photos here on the beautiful fungi and mushrooms on the forest floor, that look like cookies and candies, that reminded me of my hungry tummy.

Usually after months of rain followed by a short dry spell, the forest is beautifully decorated with bright-coloured fungi and mushroom. Some examples are included herein.